Birds in China The loneliness of the Chinese birdwatcher Dec 18th 2008 | ZHOUSHAN
From The Economist print edition A personal account of an exhilarating hunt for the Chinese crested tern, possibly the world’s rarest bird The fields are few, but the sea is vast. So men have made fields from the sea.
—Qing dynasty gazetteer THEY are there as night falls, and your car lights pick them up as you speed along the coast on a new and excitingly empty motorway: clusters of ragged people who have clambered up through the barriers from the patchwork of ancient paddy fields which this new road paved with glorious intentions has sundered. This is Hainan, an island nearly the size of Sri Lanka which for centuries the Chinese considered to be a place of exile and disease but which the Communist state and its construction mafia is rebranding as a tropical paradise. The people are not ethnic Chinese at all, but from the Li minority—the original settlers of Hainan. The early Chinese conquerors called them barbarians, for they drilled their teeth and went barefoot; a poet, despising their sharp voices, dubbed them shrike-tongued. Today the Chinese still look down on the Li but esteem them as hunters. “Bow and knife never leave their hands,” wrote a Song dynasty chronicler; or mist nets, a modern chronicler might add.对少数民族的种族歧视
By the side of the road, Li men, young and old, hold clusters of wild birds by the legs, waving them as we roar past. We skid to a halt and I get out for a closer look. The Li men jostle to sell me supper, all of it live: white-breasted waterhens, little egrets, a black-crowned night heron and a spot-billed duck, the only duck where male and female look alike. Upright, herons and their egret cousins have the gaunt, hunched air of sharp-eyed spinsters dressed for an Edwardian salon. Hung upside down, they turn limp, resigned to their fate except for the occasional mild jab at their captor’s hand. I have not eaten of the family. But I did once (in a Guangzhou restaurant that kept herons, civet cats and a live donkey in the store room) accept a bite of cormorant, which must be similar, and it is nothing to write home about. As I turn back to the shiny car, one of the old vendors in a torn T-shirt and shorts is disdainful. “Ta kan ye bu mai!” he spits. “He looks and doesn’t even buy anything.”不珍惜野生动物,负评价 China is not a good place to be a bird. I learnt this when I moved from Hong Kong, still a British colony, to Beijing. Though my home in Hong Kong was in the heart of the city, dense scrub tumbled down the slopes from the Peak. I was driven out of bed every morning by a raucous dawn chorus. The violet whistling thrush was among the first to start up, and the hwamei (“beautiful eyebrow”), with white eyestripe and rich territorial song. The koel, a tropical cuckoo that lurks in thick cover, has a rising bisyllabic wolf-whistle. The grey treepie, a corvid, was a late riser, but hoodlum gangs soon made up for it. Layered over the top of all this came the screeches of sulphur-crested cockatoos. These aerial zoomers were a feral flock. The oldest had short lengths of chain on their legs and were released in 1941 from the aviary at Flagstaff House as the Japanese army closed in. In my hutong neighbourhood in Beijing, by contrast, the mornings were strangely silent. In 1958 Mao Zedong had declared war on songbirds, sparrows in particular: he claimed they consumed scarce grain. For three days and nights my neighbourhood, gripped like much of northern China by hysteria, had beaten pots and pans to keep birds on the move until they collapsed in exhaustion on the roofs and pavements of the courtyard houses. The consequence was a plague of locusts the next year that helped bring on a famine. “Suan le,” Mao had said when told that the anti-sparrow campaign was not working. “Forget it then.”对除四害的负评价 Four decades after the campaign, sparrows remained scarcer in Beijing than they should have been (though they could reliably be found being grilled on bamboo skewers in the night markets, along with yellow-breasted buntings, meltingly sweet, in autumn). The most common bird-sound I used to hear was the clack of a handsome azure-winged magpie as it rummaged through my crab-apple tree. The occasional croak drifted down from on high as a raven returned to the Temple of Heaven. But the most memorable, and haunting, bird-sound was man-made. An old monk in a temple down my lane had inserted tiny bamboo flutes into the tail-feathers of his flock of pigeons. As they wheeled over my roof, they trailed an aeolian music behind them. The old man is gone now. So, too, are the courtyard houses and the hutong neighbourhoods, flattened in an orgy of destruction that was supposed to make Beijing more presentable for the Olympics. 对城市改造,负评价 In theory, China has lots of birds. To date, 1,329 species have been counted, out of a world total of 9,000-odd. China has a rich mix of habitats, from upland steppe and desert, to mountain fir and spruce forests, lowland tropical rainforest, and wetlands. China is the world centre for pheasants, boasting 62 out of 200 species worldwide: the tail feathers of the Reeve’s pheasant, 60 inches (150cm) long, are prized for headgear in Peking opera. The country has nine of 14 species of crane, a bird held in special affection for its fidelity; and a quarter of the world’s total of ducks, swans and geese. Many bird species are endemic (that is, found nowhere else), and China’s south-west is particularly rich in flora and fauna, birds included. Hainan, despite heavy logging, boasts two species unique to the island: a partridge, and a leaf warbler discovered only in 1992.环保,物种取材 Spotting birds in thick forest is a tantalising business and, for a reporter with dull senses, it tips towards the frustrating. In Hainan’s high forest reserve of Bawangling, a nondescript bird (a common white-eye, or a bird unknown to science?) flits into view for a split second; before I have fumbled with the focusing knob on my binoculars, it has vanished back into the gloom. The reserve’s species list is long, but mine is grimly short, though I did see a magnificent male silver pheasant, 40 inches from bill to tail, crossing the forest track. And I heard a troupe of that rarest of mammals, the Hainan black-crested gibbon, hooting away high up along the mountain ridges. Yet my passions lie with the open coast: the intertidal flats, the salt marshes and the mangrove swamps that every autumn, winter and spring host (when you can find them) intoxicating numbers of shorebirds, waders and wildfowl driven down by instinctual urge from their breeding grounds in Asia’s far north. In search of shorebirds, I cross by crowded ferry from Hainan to Beihai, mainland China’s southernmost port near the border with Vietnam. Aboard, a large box of passerines and mynah birds, heading for death in exquisite cages, keeps up a cheerful chorus while the rest of the passengers succumb to a dumb seasickness. China’s coast is long and indented. It abuts relatively shallow seas, rendered turbid by the sediment of China’s east-flowing rivers—1 billion tonnes of sediment a year dumped by the Yangzi and Yellow rivers alone. Hainan and Taiwan farther north provide something of an outer boundary for the South China Sea and East China Sea respectively—comparisons are often made between these semi-enclosed seas and the Mediterranean. The warm monsoonal waters are rich spawning grounds for fish and other marine species. But even more than the Mediterranean littoral, China’s is a busy coast. That is a problem for a great diversity of wild things trying to thrive alongside humans. Beihai sits in a tight-lipped bay on the Gulf of Tonkin, where the rich silt of estuaries is swept and trapped by turbid currents—a paradise for molluscs and those that hunt them. Winter dawn is leaden, no line between sky and sea. A flotilla of low craft chuff from left to right, man and wife hunched at the stern. One by one, the boats break off to settle by withies that mark the pearl-oyster beds. On each deck is a wooden shed and all the paraphernalia of oyster cultivation: tongs and rakes, mesh-bags of oyster spat, wire trays. Within minutes the scattered boats lay still, and the seascape takes on an air of quiet industry, a watery allotment land. On shore, clams and cockles sit in heaps before a long brick row of low fisherman’s homes, the doorposts pasted with bright paper charms. Out front, families are ankle-deep in bivalves, shovelling them into soybean sacks and stacking these in piles. The haul, says a woman with a grin, is on its way to the tables of Beijing. 未完待续 |